Japan's celebrated principles of thrift and conservation further sustainability in the culinary world, brilliantly embracing scraps, leftovers and the whole animal.
The breezy fishing village of Murakami, only three hours by train from Tokyo, feels light-years removed from the hubbub of the world's largest city.
The frozen-in-time castle town is a respite from the rush and roar of urban Japan and home to Idutsuya, a renowned restaurant inside an inn once patronised by the 17th-Century poet and Zen master Basho.
In a dining room as serene as a Zen meditation hall, a dozen distinct salmon delicacies are presented like jewels on a lacquered tray. The parade of briny bites is a symphony of flavors and textures, expressing the Japanese ideal of mottainai, finding creative ways to eliminate waste.
Mottainai translates to "What a waste!" but most closely mirrors the saying, "Waste not, want not." This ideal of minimizing waste informs cultural quirks across Japanese life. The principle that reduces food costs and aligns with sustainability goals.
Modern Japan, known for its high GDP, still cherishes the practices born out of necessity that transformed leftovers into nourishing and delicious repasts. Scarcity inspired iconic Japanese dishes like ochazuke and kasuzuke.
The Principle of Mottainai in Japanese Cuisine
While mottainai harkens back to leaner times, it remains a pillar even in opulent sushi and kaiseki restaurants. Finding ways to cook every part of a plant or animal not only reduces food costs but also yields memorable flavors in the hands of an expert chef.
In Niigata, Satoyama Jujo is a Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by chef Keiko Kuwakino. Kuwakino draws inspiration from her grandmother's thrift in crafting seasonal kaiseki menus celebrating the lush valleys and cold waters of her home prefecture.
Kuwakino transforms humble remnants into gourmet delights, showcasing her skill in utilizing every part of ingredients and minimizing waste.
Before the first course at Satoyama Jujo, Kuwakino says the traditional Japanese grace of itadakimasu, an expression of gratitude for the sacrifice made for the meal. This practice resonates deeply with the Shinto philosophy, elevating the act of not wasting food to a sacred duty.
In New York City, sushi master Masa Takayama upholds the importance of utilizing every part of the fish as a mark of respect for the creature. At Masa, even fish bones, eyes, and head meat are utilized in various dishes, showcasing the essence of mottainai.
Recipe: Okara with Leftover Veggies
For chef Masa Takayama, okara with leftover veggies is a home-cooked meal embodying the spirit of mottainai. Okara is traditionally soy pulp or tofu dregs, but extra soft tofu can be used as a substitute.
Ingredients:
- Soy sauce
- Sugar
- Sesame oil
- Vegetables
- Okara or extra-soft tofu
- Water
- Cooked leftover bones of meat, fish, or chicken
- Cooked rice (optional)
Method:
1. Create a sauce by combining soy sauce, sugar, and leftover stock in a saucepan.
2. Sauté chopped vegetables until soft.
3. Boil the okara with the sauce and water until well combined. Serve alongside sautéed vegetables and rice.
